Cutter XR-E MR11

Light: Cutter XR-E MR11
Cost: $200-300, depending on options
Website: http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut756
Additional information, pictures, and video at http://darelldd.com/light/piston_light.htm"

Cutter XR-E MR11 Low beam High beam

The Cutter MR11 is a great light, but not for everyone. Why? Because it's a kit. See, for instance, if this description from the product website means anything to you:

"The Cree XR-E MR11 comprises 3 pcs of the latest high flux bin, the Q5 from Cree, mounted on a recently designed MR11 Metal core printed circuit board, a Khatod 35 mm triple optic to suit the PCB and a Taskled 'Fatman' boost driver. This driver allows you to drive the leds below the forward voltage. Some possible power supply options for the Fatman include driving this light engine with a 6V SLA or 7.2V 6 cell NiMH."

If not, this may not be your light. Then again, Russ Kanz, who owns the light, tells me it's very simple to put together. It just takes a little soldering. I don't believe him; but I also know there are plenty of people in the club who could help you understand the options available and put the thing together.

Overview

The light unit consists of three MR11 LEDs. (I forgot to take a picture of the front. Sorry. Look at the websites above for pictures and a video by Darell). You can also buy it in a four LED configuration, but that seems like overkill. The unit does not have a rear light option.

Power

The Cutter light kit can be order with different drivers for the LEDs. You have the choice of either UIB2 (bike specific UI) or UIP/UIF/UIB (fixed, portable & bike UI's). Cutter says "UIB2 is a totally new UI optimized for bicycle use with several features new to the UIB2 firmware. The menu system has been totally revamped for easier configuration for the novice."  So, yeah, you'd probably just stick with UIB2.

The neat thing about the UIB2 driver is that it will run on 4v to 25 v inputs. This gives you a lot of flexibility on the battery configuration. Lithium Ion ( Li-ion) batteries provide the highest capacity at the lowest weight and size. You need to determine the desired run time, and then determine the battery size and configuration. Battery Space has lots of batteries, chargers, and parts for bike lights. http://www.batteryspace.com/ You can use this calculator to determine battery size: http://www.jtice.com/led_pro/led_pro.htm

The light is rated at 400 lumens when running at the highest setting. And LEDs are continually getting brighter. The color of the LEDs is also important. The Cutter lights put out a white light, not the blue light some other LED lights produce.

Usability

The UI (designed by Darell) is set up to be bicycle-specific and is fully user-configurable. It can be as simple as a click to turn on, a click to choose between high and low, and a press to turn off (which is the configuration I used). Or it can be set up with five evenly-spaced output levels. Click to turn on, click to go each step brighter, press to go dimmer (and eventually turn off). Built-in "accidental turn-off protection" included. Even the brightness levels are configurable (you choose how bright you want the highest level, and the five steps space themselves evenly). The circuit has configurable battery and thermal protection as well.

Mounting

Russ mounted the light on my handlebars, the batter pack on my frame, and used a separate tie to keep the cable from getting loose in about 15 seconds. And he wasn't hurrying. He used velcro straps. Darell's uses O rings, and looks about as simple to install.

Light Pattern

The light pattern was plenty to cover Putah Creek Road. There was no central hot spot to focus on which made objects at the periphery easy enough to spot.

Summary

I realize this is not a thorough review, so I am leaving the comment section open for those who might add more information. But the bottom line is that this seemed like an excellent light, somewhat less expensive than comparable systems. Again, probably not the best system for someone more comfortable taking the light out of the box, mounting it, and riding off. Some knowledge and assembly required.

official blurb a bit odd

I just noticed that the official Cutter description is a bit off. It says that it allows you do drive the LEDs below the Vf. Of course it allows you to drive them well ABOVE the Vf as well. But what really happens is that the current is tightly controlled, and the voltage just follows along like a well-trained dog. LEDs are current-driven, and this is a constant current driver. The voltage just does what it needs to do along the way.

Love the UI! :)

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-= Darell =-

Kit is electronics only ???

Perhaps I am missing something. As far as I can see, the kit only supplies the electronic parts for this nice lamp. I know there are great do-it-yourself lamp builders out there; but are there practical options for the housing, battery packs and the mounts available, which would not require an extensive set of tools and skills?

You can also purchase the housing now

Cutter carries a housing specifically for the LED/electronics kit as well. Just look here:
http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut779

You'll want to have some small parts assembly experience (and tools) to attempt this. But anybody who's mechanically inclined should be able to get it together eventually.

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-= Darell =-